The
picturesque coastline of Paxos gives the island its exceptional
character. Four small rocky islets almost touch the coasts
of the island leaving narrow passages for the boats: these
are the islets of Panaghia, Aghiow Nikolaos, Kaltsonisi
and Monghonisi, (the last one linked with the island of
Paxos by a bridge). The west coast of the island is steep
and craggy, but offers fascinating views such as the rocks
of Erimitis, a steep, vertical cliff which is wonderfully
coloured at dusk. In the southwest coast of the island
there are about 40 sea caves, the wll-known "gravas",
with blue-green waters and magnificent domes where the
light palys with the water. The most famous "gravas"
are Ypapanti on the rocks of Erimitis, Megalo Antro. Achantakas
at Pounta, the grava of Lantros and the grava of Achai
at the homonymous bay.
In
Paxos, traditional architecture is kept almost antact. Houses
in the villages of Gaios, Laka and Longos, usually two-storey
buildings, painted in soft, bright colours, with tiled roofs
and lovely balconies, are typical examples of authentic, traditional
Ionian architecture. In the thick olive groves of the island
there are hidden old mansions and farm-houses that once belonged
to the noblemen of the island. One can also find stone-built
farmhouses, water-tanks for the preciouw rain water, old oil-presses,
mills and storehouses, all surrounded by narrow paths, little
walks and stone benches. Among these there are numerous old
chapels, all white-washed, with painted door and window friezes,
with unusual domes and elaborate bell-towers. Some of the most
remarkable churches in Paxos are: the church of Ypapanti with
the two domes and the beautiful bell-tower in the village of
Gramatikeika; the church of Aghii Apostoli in the village of
Boikatika, the church of Estavromenos in the village of Fontana,
Aghios Ioannis in Vasilatika, Aghia Paraskevi in Ozias and,
finally, the church of Aghios Nikolaos in Longos. As
on all Ionian Islands, the Venetians made their presence strongly
felt in Paxos. This island, qua 'satellite' of Corfu, was not
administrated by an independent authority, but rather by a deputy
appointed by the General Superintendent of Corfu. Paxos did
not remain unaffected by pirate raids, especially during the
16th century. Apart from attacks by Turkish battleships, with
all the plundering, the taking of local people as captives,
and all the disasters that ensued as a result thereof, the notoriously
cruel Hairedin Barbarossa set his eye on Paxos. The Turkish
admiral-cum-pirate, irritated from his failure to siege Corfu
into surrendering, literally levelled Paxos in 1537. Still,
he did not enjoy this victory for long. On July the 14th 1537,
the Turkish fleet was severely damaged the attack made against
it by the Genoan Admiral Andrea Doria, in the strait between
Corfu and Paxos. Fourteen Turkish ships were sunk, ammunition
and all, without ever meeting the Turkish convoy that was heading
to Vlore. Yachtsmen
and all kinds of sailing-lovers and seafarers have discovered
for years now, a true paradise in Paxos. The island with the
safe and lee harbours of Gaios, Longos and Laka is a "must"
destination or stop-over for boats travelling in the Ionian
sea. The marinas offer all necessary facilities. Mooring at
these picturesque ports is a lovely surprise for travellers.
While sails flocking round the islands and the coasts of Epirus
and boats sailing slowly to the narrow passage of Gaios and
the quiet bays of Laka and Longos early in the evening when
the first lights appear in the harbour, are two of the most
characteristic and beautiful summer pictures at Paxos. A
traveller approaching Paxos is confronted with an image of immense
greenery. A vast olive grove covers the island's low hillocks
through-out. Its slopes are densely wooded, and the soil is
propped up by innumerable stone benches, which outline a number
of little roads and paths. Just a tiny bit of light manages
to peer through the thick foliage. The silver-green olive grove
is dispersed with cypress thickets that reach as far down as
the seaside. All this abundant vegetation is irrigated by no
other source than the frequent Ionian rainfall, since both springs
and underground streams are practically non-existent.
Map of Cyclades Islands
Map of Paxi
It
is quite wondrous that such a small island, with craggy shores
all along its west coast, has so many beautiful beaches. They
are all situated along the northern and the eastern parts of
the island, and they all offer the same exotic view: thick vegetation
reaching down to the seaside, white pebbles, and crystal-clear
water. Some of Paxos most beautiful beaches are those of Harami
and of Kanoni at the Laka bay; Levrechio, Monodendri and the
lovely beaches of Kipiadi and Kaki Langada, while at the south
of Gaios one should single out the beaches of Ballos, Porto
Ozia and the one and only sandy beach at Mongonisi. At the craggy
western shores, there lie, as if hidden away, the wonderful
beaches of Avlaki and Galazio, while those who will take a trip
to Antipaxos will enjoy the splendid sandy beaches of Vrika
and Voutoumi. In
greek mythology, Paxos was created by Poseidon, the sea-god.
With his all-mighty trident he clipped a piece off Corfu's southern
shore and used it to create Paxos, an idyllic love nest for
himself and Amphitrite, daughter of Nereus. Amphitrite became
Posidon's wedded wife, while his divine trident - which was
severely damaged when he was creating the island - is said to
have been found by ancient Paxians. It was then that Posidon's
trident became the official symbol of Paxos.
